Bangkok

Thursday 16^th October

It was a lazy Thursday, okay, okay, I got out of bed at 2:30pm, whatever! After a shower, went to a McDonalds, it wasn't my choice but my "guide" decided we should eat and took me there, from which I took a metro two stops to Hua Lamphong railway station and purchased my ticket for travel to Surat Thani, en route to Phuket for Saturday. I wanted to catch the 7:30pm sleeper train but alas it was full, the only other sleeper leaving at 5:05pm had just one berth remaining, I took it, paid the 690 baht and headed back to Silom.

The evening was spent walking around the night markets, wandering into a street full of go-go girl bars then another full of go-go boy bars, got the impression that these places could be rip off joints, so I took to the street market once more before heading off to The Balcony, where I must say I enjoyed some delicious food and a rather pleasant drink or two before ending up at the disco again which by the way is called G.O.D., didn't see the Manchester lads but will likely as not meet up with them in Phuket.

Friday 17^th October

I was up, showered and down for breakfast at 11:30am, well done I thought to myself. Was thinking of going to go the Grand Palace but I learnt that one should arise very early to go there, as it closes at 3:30pm. Instead I took the Skytrain two stops to the river, where I boarded a boat to visit the oldest temple in Bangkok, Wat Pho. Incidentally, this temple is also famous for its massage school. An official guide, a very pleasant elderly gentleman, showed me around the temple and grounds, explaining that there were no less than three hundred and eighty eight Buddha statues here and proceeded to show me as many as he could. He explained that the position of the hands of each Buddha meant different things and the reclining Buddha was an amazing sight at 48 metres in length. At the end of the tour, my guide enquired if I would like a massage whilst I was here, I responded with a maybe whereupon I was taken to a massage centre just beyond the perimeter of the temple and for 250 baht (about £4.50), a Wat Pho trained masseuse gave me my first proper Thai massage. For one hour I was pushed, twisted, kneed, elbowed, pummelled and jerked, the pain wasn't that bad – okay a few uncomfortable moments where I felt a little nauseas but my knotted muscles where truly untied after the session.

After I continued walking but before long was greeted by a pair of tuk-tuk drivers, who asked me if I had seen the 45 metre high, standing Buddha and the White Buddha, to which I replied that I hadn't. Before I knew it I was made an offer to be taken by one of them to see these Buddies, only 30 baht I was told, to which I agreed, it was then I was told I would also be taken to a couple of export houses but was not obliged to buy anything, hmmm.

The tuk-tuk turned out to be an experience I can only liken to a fairground ride as I clung to its sides for dear life being swung around corners and directly into oncoming traffic. I was taken to the temple with the White Buddha first and was surprised that it was so small. I suppose the Thai people must consider it quite unique as virtually every Buddha around is brass or covered with gold. Then I was taken to my first export house, where a lovely lady by the name of Toto tried to entice me into buying some jewellery I was sat in front of. I resisted and thought I got away with it when she asked me to give her my arm, gently stroking it she explained that my skin was western skin, very dry not oily like eastern skin, my blood was sweet, just how the mosquitoes liked it. I walked out with a loofah filled with lemongrass and a bar of lemongrass soap. Oh well.

Next I was taken to a very large export house, many tuk-tuks were there with their cargo of tourists. Inside, I joined the throng, was given a drink of water and placed in their care of this very lovely lady whose name escapes me. Taken into this vast room with huge array of display cabinets, housing all manner of jewellery, a ring for the partner, necklace for my mother, something for myself, "no, no, no, I cried, it's all very nice but I am very poor". This was a mistake, for then my lovely lady noticed my silver ring, "you like silver" she said, "we have silver over here, look" thereupon I was whisked in front of a large display cabinet crammed with men's silver rings. Spinning rings, plain rings, patterned rings, all sorts of rings, all silver. After rejecting around twenty different styles, an English tourist appeared next to me and was shown one style which I had not, I fell in love – not with the tourist I hasten to add but with the ring he was being shown, a Cartier style puzzle ring made up of six plain fine bands. Suddenly upon showing interest a box of twenty or more of these rings came out, 800 baht lighter and a fake Cartier heavier, I left quite pleased with my purchase and plonking myself back on the tuk-tuk, was back on the fairground ride to see the Big Buddha.

The Big Buddha stands 45 metres high and whilst quite impressive, I was getting a bit buddhered out. I took the statutory photos and returned to my carriage, whereupon my driver decided I needed a suit. Entering a showroom filled with all manner of cloths, samples of suits and an extensive array of shirts, I was being cajoled into having a suit tailored for me. This time I stood my ground and left exactly as I had entered.

After what must have been at least two hours, I was returned to the dock from which I arrived, I paid the driver his 30 baht and strode to the pier and journeyed back to the hotel.

Saturday 18^th October

I'll be brief, after breakfast I took the Skytrain to the National Stadium, for this is the stop to go and see Jim Thompson's house. Jim Thompson, an American born in 1906 arrived in Bangkok just shortly after the second-world war as a military intelligence officer. He lived the place so much he decided to return and live in Thailand permanently. He was responsible for the growth of a neglected cottage industry, the hand weaving of silk and contributed substantially to the industry's growth and worldwide recognition of Thai silk.

He also constructed an incredible house formed of six fine teak buildings at least two hundred years old, these were dismantled from their original site and brought to the present location beside a canal. The house together with three out-houses were constructed one storey above ground to avoid flooding during the rainy season. Jim Thompson moved into the house in April 1959 and together with the great art collection contained within, it soon became a point of great interest that he decided to open it to the public with proceeds going to Thai charities.

On 26^th March 1967, Jim Thompson disappeared whilst on a visit to the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia. Not a single clue has ever turned up as to what might have happened to him. The house and its ground were a well worthy visit.

In the evening, I boarded the train and headed to Phuket, I have already decided to return to Bangkok for my last week, I find it a great city with lovely people and can only say to anyone who said avoid it, I'm so glad I didn't.