Phuket, the first 10 days

19th October 2008

Okay, so there I was at the Connect Guest House in the Paradise Complex, registered at Reception, and then was taken to my room where my suitcase was already waiting for me. In the room were a king-size bed, wardrobe, desk, fridge, TV and safe. The en-suite, a wet room with shower, a western style toilet and a trendy round wash basin made of steel. The room itself had a door leading onto a small balcony, from where I could peer down at the soi below filled with host bars, a disco, a go-go bar and a massage joint, it was quiet out there but it was only midday.

After unpacking and showering, I ventured out into the streets of Patong, heading towards the beach I was constantly being offered a taxi, a massage and an invite to someone's wonderful emporium of goods and chattels. I noticed that although it was Sunday, the opticians were open. It was my intention to buy a pair of variofocal lens glasses anyway, so after checking out three opticians, I settled on a pair of Rolex half-frame eyeware, negotiated a deal to my satisfaction and would collect them the next Friday.

20th October 2008

After a late breakfast, a feast of scrambled egg, sausage, bacon, potatoes and toast, orange juice and coffee I sauntered out to find the dentist with whom I had made an appointment online a few weeks earlier. I was to have a deep clean, root canal treatment on one tooth, a bridge, some fillings, one extraction and a metal denture for my back teeth. That, I thought, should keep me busy for the next three weeks. At half past five I returned for the deep clean and extraction, that evening I remained in my room biting on gauze.

21st October 2008

A little excursion around the town buying a couple of polo shirts and a pair of light cotton trousers, that evening it rained hard and I kept to a couple of bars nearby my hotel.

22^nd October 2008

I was not enjoying Patong, I'm not a beach person these days (all summer long I only lay out on the beach twice at home in Torremolinos). I was longing for the city and had left Bangkok with many things still to do there. I telephoned a friend in Madrid, spilled my heart out to him and decided at this point to forego my trip to Pattaya planned for December in favour of city life. I went out, feeling better for having spoken to someone and within 20 metres stumbled upon Colin and Stephen sitting outside The Flying Handbag. Colin and Stephen, you may recall from an earlier blog, were two Mancunians I met in Bangkok. Since I last saw them, they had been up to Chiang Mai and were telling me all about their experiences including a day elephant trekking. The next day they were going onto Krabi for the last stage of their holiday. We ended up watching the show in the Boat Bar and dancing fuelled pleasantly by alcohol, this I must say is the best and friendliest hassle free bar in the Paradise Complex. A few hours later we said our goodbyes and I returned to my room and slept happily.

23rd October 2008

It was back to the dentist for my root canal treatment, it rained somewhat in the afternoon and that night I took it fairly easy and was asleep before 2am.

24th October 2008

Dentist again at midday, this time preparing for my bridge, 3 hours later my mouth was thrilled to bits when I got up from the dentist chair, it felt like forever. That evening was the Freedom Party being hosted by Club Lime on the beach road and the Boat Bar, I had my ticket and was all ready for it but the rain fell persistently that evening so I never ventured beyond the Boat Bar.

Earlier that evening, I arranged to meet someone I had been chatting to online, it was 11pm and I was early arriving at the Boat Bar and took a seat at the outside bar and ordered a Bacardi and Coke. Suddenly I was taken by surprise as the receptionist from the Om Yin Lodge in Bangkok greeted me from the next bar stool, small world eh! Anyway we chatted; he introduced me to an Australian friend of his, David who apparently had been staying at the Om Yin during the time I was there. The evening went quickly, watched the two shows inside and then my online friend appeared. A little after 4:30am, I went to bed.

25th October 2008

This day started as a blur but a good blur or was it that I was up so late after the previous night, hmmm. Best asked me if I liked to go bowling, well it's been a few years since but I agreed. Off we went to Jung Ceylon a shopping and entertainment complex in the heart of Patong, where he beat me two games to one. Next to the Bowling complex was the cinema, we decided to go and watch a film, Body of Lies, starring Leonardo di Caprio. Not one of my favourite Leonardo films I must say, the whole thing was a Ridley Scott epic at its worst.

26th October 2008

It was 11am, whatever possessed me to be there at that ungodly hour, I've no idea but I was sat in the waiting room of the dentist. 40 minutes and several apologies later, it seemed that there was a fault with the equipment in the dental surgery and so I escaped having my filling done. I returned to the Connect to find Best sat at one of the tables on his Sony Viao. I brought down my Toshiba Equium and joined him. We discovered that the new James Bond, Quantum of Solace was opening on the 5th November and we reserved a sofa seat. What to do next, the weather was very dull so it was another phone call to the cinema to watch Max Payne that evening. This film was a little better, Mark Wahlberg starred, but it wasn't that good.

27th October 2009

Best had to go to Phuket town to get his car exhaust and rear camera repaired following a minor shunt he had previously received. I said that it would be nice to see the town and went along for the ride. Now Best has a one year old Toyota Vios, this was an insurance job but if you think it would be a simple matter of popping the vehicle into the Toyota garage for repair, then wrong, wrong, wrong! We went to one little back street garage, after an inspection we were off to another back street garage to get the exhaust fixed, twenty minutes and 150 baht later, yes that's all he was charged to fix the rear exhaust pipe, we went off to another place to sort out the camera and re-fix the nearside skirt that had come loose in the middle. Another little garage in a remote place later, the nearside skirt was fixed with silicon and its offside partner got a similar treatment for good measure. Best was happy, with his exhaust repaired the Vios purred rather than growled. Now it was time to show me the architecture of Phuket Town.

Muang Phuket or Phuket town's most interesting sites are its historic colonial-style Sino-Portuguese shop houses built well over one hundred years ago by Chinese merchants, together with a couple of rather grand mansions, banks and a clock tower occupying its own island, they make the town an interesting place to visit.

Next we drove a few kilometres south-east to Wat Chalong. The temple is beautifully ornamented and is associated with three revered monks of Luang Pro Chaem, who helped the people of Phuket put down the Ahngyee - Chinese Coolie, Rebellion in 1876 during the reign of Rama V.

We headed back into Phuket town and to the Central shopping and entertainment centre and guess what, our third film in as many days. This time it was City of Ember, produced by Tom Hanks – this was the best film so far, which was not difficult really but it was enjoyable to watch.

After, we drove back into Patong, arriving around 6:30pm and headed straight to Mio, a bar belonging to friends of Best. From the bar we ordered some excelent food from the restaurant next door, washed down with a couple of beers. Best appeared not to be in any hurry to leave and I moved to the bar and started talking with his friends. I had been drinking Tiger beer, nice but gassy and so two was enough, I didn't know what to have, Best ordered a gin and tonic, I took a sip, enjoyed and ordered one myself. Several g & t's later, bar snacks were flowing in the shape of crisps and nuts and the atmosphere was like a party, I decided to take a look at one of their rooms upstairs. It was a little larger than the room at Connect, very clean, well equipped, a king size bed and much cheaper. I arranged to spend my last week in Patong there and reserved the room from Saturday. Now this wasn't the only thing I changed while I was in Mio, the subject arose about my dental work, one of the clients of the bar was a dentist at Bangkok Hospital and convinced me to have the rest of my treatment there at a much lower price. Eventually, a nicely fuelled Peter was transported back to his room, took a shower and went straight to bed.

28th October 2009

I awoke sometime after midday, got up and was surprised how clear my head felt. I cancelled my appointment for the fillings at Sea Smile on the next day and went downstairs and ordered a green curry soup for lunch - I had missed breakfast. After we drove just over a kilometre to Mio where I confirmed my booking for the room. It was a lovely day and I decided to walk back along the beach.

For what remained of the day, I spent studying English grammar and working on my pre-course task, something I had been neglecting far too long.

Journey to Phuket

Saturday 18^th October

At precisely 17:18 hours the 17:05 train started pulling out of Hua Lamphong station en route for Surat Thani due to arrive at 04:04 the following morning. We chugged along very slowly and it didn't take too long to understood why. Flanking the tracks were makeshift homes crafted out of metal and sheeting, some home as little as 20 centimetres from the train, many had mopeds parked outside. Numerous people were milling around this ghetto city within a city which continued along for what for what seemed miles. Never before have I seen anything like this, the people themselves were going about their business seemingly oblivious to the great monster lurching along bedside them.

Within an hour the blackness of the night had filled the air and the train carriage was being turned into a dormitory of upper and lower bunks. My bunk, an upper one, was very narrow and so I squeezed myself into it for the night.

At 04:48 hours the train pulled into Surat Thani, 44 minutes late whereupon I was greeted by a man who took me to a cafe selling bus tickets. Upon enquiring, I discovered the bus was not due until 07:30, suddenly I was pleased that the train had arrived late. Purchasing my bus ticket and settling down to a light breakfast of toast and jam with orange juice and coffee, I proceeded to kill time by getting out my laptop and writing my last blog – Bangkok. Eventually 07:30 came and sure enough so did a bus, which took me over the course of the next four hours to Phuket Town. On route there was some beautiful scenery, lush green mountains disappearing into the clouds as the bus sped along its way.

No sooner had I stepped off the bus in Phuket Town when I was accosted by a taxi driver, I asked the price to Patong and was quoted a fixed price of 450 baht, with some bartering I got a small reduction of 50 baht for the 11 kilometre ride to my journey's end. It was midday on Sunday 19^th October when I arrived at my destination, the Connect Guest House.

Bangkok

Thursday 16^th October

It was a lazy Thursday, okay, okay, I got out of bed at 2:30pm, whatever! After a shower, went to a McDonalds, it wasn't my choice but my "guide" decided we should eat and took me there, from which I took a metro two stops to Hua Lamphong railway station and purchased my ticket for travel to Surat Thani, en route to Phuket for Saturday. I wanted to catch the 7:30pm sleeper train but alas it was full, the only other sleeper leaving at 5:05pm had just one berth remaining, I took it, paid the 690 baht and headed back to Silom.

The evening was spent walking around the night markets, wandering into a street full of go-go girl bars then another full of go-go boy bars, got the impression that these places could be rip off joints, so I took to the street market once more before heading off to The Balcony, where I must say I enjoyed some delicious food and a rather pleasant drink or two before ending up at the disco again which by the way is called G.O.D., didn't see the Manchester lads but will likely as not meet up with them in Phuket.

Friday 17^th October

I was up, showered and down for breakfast at 11:30am, well done I thought to myself. Was thinking of going to go the Grand Palace but I learnt that one should arise very early to go there, as it closes at 3:30pm. Instead I took the Skytrain two stops to the river, where I boarded a boat to visit the oldest temple in Bangkok, Wat Pho. Incidentally, this temple is also famous for its massage school. An official guide, a very pleasant elderly gentleman, showed me around the temple and grounds, explaining that there were no less than three hundred and eighty eight Buddha statues here and proceeded to show me as many as he could. He explained that the position of the hands of each Buddha meant different things and the reclining Buddha was an amazing sight at 48 metres in length. At the end of the tour, my guide enquired if I would like a massage whilst I was here, I responded with a maybe whereupon I was taken to a massage centre just beyond the perimeter of the temple and for 250 baht (about £4.50), a Wat Pho trained masseuse gave me my first proper Thai massage. For one hour I was pushed, twisted, kneed, elbowed, pummelled and jerked, the pain wasn't that bad – okay a few uncomfortable moments where I felt a little nauseas but my knotted muscles where truly untied after the session.

After I continued walking but before long was greeted by a pair of tuk-tuk drivers, who asked me if I had seen the 45 metre high, standing Buddha and the White Buddha, to which I replied that I hadn't. Before I knew it I was made an offer to be taken by one of them to see these Buddies, only 30 baht I was told, to which I agreed, it was then I was told I would also be taken to a couple of export houses but was not obliged to buy anything, hmmm.

The tuk-tuk turned out to be an experience I can only liken to a fairground ride as I clung to its sides for dear life being swung around corners and directly into oncoming traffic. I was taken to the temple with the White Buddha first and was surprised that it was so small. I suppose the Thai people must consider it quite unique as virtually every Buddha around is brass or covered with gold. Then I was taken to my first export house, where a lovely lady by the name of Toto tried to entice me into buying some jewellery I was sat in front of. I resisted and thought I got away with it when she asked me to give her my arm, gently stroking it she explained that my skin was western skin, very dry not oily like eastern skin, my blood was sweet, just how the mosquitoes liked it. I walked out with a loofah filled with lemongrass and a bar of lemongrass soap. Oh well.

Next I was taken to a very large export house, many tuk-tuks were there with their cargo of tourists. Inside, I joined the throng, was given a drink of water and placed in their care of this very lovely lady whose name escapes me. Taken into this vast room with huge array of display cabinets, housing all manner of jewellery, a ring for the partner, necklace for my mother, something for myself, "no, no, no, I cried, it's all very nice but I am very poor". This was a mistake, for then my lovely lady noticed my silver ring, "you like silver" she said, "we have silver over here, look" thereupon I was whisked in front of a large display cabinet crammed with men's silver rings. Spinning rings, plain rings, patterned rings, all sorts of rings, all silver. After rejecting around twenty different styles, an English tourist appeared next to me and was shown one style which I had not, I fell in love – not with the tourist I hasten to add but with the ring he was being shown, a Cartier style puzzle ring made up of six plain fine bands. Suddenly upon showing interest a box of twenty or more of these rings came out, 800 baht lighter and a fake Cartier heavier, I left quite pleased with my purchase and plonking myself back on the tuk-tuk, was back on the fairground ride to see the Big Buddha.

The Big Buddha stands 45 metres high and whilst quite impressive, I was getting a bit buddhered out. I took the statutory photos and returned to my carriage, whereupon my driver decided I needed a suit. Entering a showroom filled with all manner of cloths, samples of suits and an extensive array of shirts, I was being cajoled into having a suit tailored for me. This time I stood my ground and left exactly as I had entered.

After what must have been at least two hours, I was returned to the dock from which I arrived, I paid the driver his 30 baht and strode to the pier and journeyed back to the hotel.

Saturday 18^th October

I'll be brief, after breakfast I took the Skytrain to the National Stadium, for this is the stop to go and see Jim Thompson's house. Jim Thompson, an American born in 1906 arrived in Bangkok just shortly after the second-world war as a military intelligence officer. He lived the place so much he decided to return and live in Thailand permanently. He was responsible for the growth of a neglected cottage industry, the hand weaving of silk and contributed substantially to the industry's growth and worldwide recognition of Thai silk.

He also constructed an incredible house formed of six fine teak buildings at least two hundred years old, these were dismantled from their original site and brought to the present location beside a canal. The house together with three out-houses were constructed one storey above ground to avoid flooding during the rainy season. Jim Thompson moved into the house in April 1959 and together with the great art collection contained within, it soon became a point of great interest that he decided to open it to the public with proceeds going to Thai charities.

On 26^th March 1967, Jim Thompson disappeared whilst on a visit to the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia. Not a single clue has ever turned up as to what might have happened to him. The house and its ground were a well worthy visit.

In the evening, I boarded the train and headed to Phuket, I have already decided to return to Bangkok for my last week, I find it a great city with lovely people and can only say to anyone who said avoid it, I'm so glad I didn't.

Arrival in Bangkok

15 October 2008

This is the first of my blogs on Thailand. I arrived at Bangkok at 9:45pm, 90 minutes late, which was down to 17 passengers going missing at Heathrow. There is a lot to be said for the easyJet policy of being on time for your flight or missing it - no further comment!

After checking in at the hotel in the Silom district of the city where I enjoyed a much welcomed shower, off I went to investigate the nightlife and take in a beer or two. I was sat on the terrace of The Balcony, taking advantage of the all-night happy hour, when it started raining. I had, wisely it turned out, positioned myself under the blind right at back and next to the doors, then within minutes the rain had turned into a storm, thunder cracking violently overhead to the accompaniment of lighting. The road had become a fast flowing river, soaking the feet and ankles of people daring to step into it. Two English guys came by and seemed uncertain about pausing for a drink in their wet attire which clung to their skin, the bar staff in their persistent yet friendly manner enticed them in. It was time for my second pair of happy hour beers.

Steve and Colin arrived one day before having journeyed from England's jewel of the north, Manchester. They're on a two week holiday and their next destination is Phuket, which coincidentally is also mine. It didn't take the clock long to reach 2am by which time the storm had subsided and The Balcony was closing for the night. Wondering what to do next, one of the bar boys, by the name of Taem, offered to take us three Brits to a disco, two streets away. It cost 280 baht (£4.75) to get into the disco but for that I got two drinks vouchers which I exchanged for Whiskey and Cokes. The place was buzzing, go-go's on podiums and a surprise when I went to the toilet.

With four beers and a couple of whiskeys inside me, I was busting, suddenly I'm stood at the urinal and a pair of hands are on my shoulders, taken by surprise and yet not wanting to stop empting my bladder I remained still, the hands started to wander down my back on my neck, my head jerked and twisted and body pulled from side to side. I realised that I was receiving a taster into Thai Massage and quite enjoying it the fairly violent force of it.

At 4am I was invited to eat, so leaving the disco, Taem signalled a taxi and off we went to this restaurant which he recommended. On arrival I was told we would eat some chicken and rice. Taem duly placed the order and then proceeded to sing, we were in a karaoke restaurant. Looking around I watched customers take a break from their meal in order to sing, they all had good voices but the tunes were not exactly music to my ears, I hoped the food would be better. Our food duly arrived, the restaurant was dimly lit and I could not see it properly, this turned out to be just as well. Crunch, crunch – uh-oh seafood. What doesn't Peter do – seafood, what was Peter eating – seafood. What more, Peter, whilst finding it disturbing continued to eat seafood (though avoiding the crunchy stuff), probably out of politeness but it didn't taste that bad and I haven't come out in a funny rash either, okay so forget the psoriasis.

Thailand is going to have a profound effect on me, I can feel it deep down. I went to bed at 5:30am, ninety one days still to go. My journey is just starting...