Monday, 11 April 2011

Promthep Cape and Rawai Pier

At the southern tip of Phuket lies the headland of Laem Phromthep, which translates to God’s Cape. Laem meaning Cape, Prom signifies purity and Thep meaning God.

Promthep is the most popular place in Phuket to watch the sunset and late afternoon each day many hundreds of people come to watch the sun as it disappears beneath the sea.

Here you will find the Brahma shrine, a four face shrine of Buddha and adorned by more than a thousand Elephant statues.
   
Walking along from here you will come to the statue of the Admiral Prince Abhakara Kiartiwonges of JumBorn, a son of King Chulalongkorn, who at the age of 13 went to the Royal Naval Academy in England for six years. After he returned, he establish the Royal Thai Naval Academy and Naval Engineering School. He is known today as the ‘Father of the Royal Thai Navy’.   

Kanchanapisek Lighthouse was built in 1996 to commemorate King Bumibhol’s Golden Jubilee. Inside there is a museum and on the top level, a panoramic view out to the Andaman Sea and in to the lush green landscape of Phuket.

Less than a five minute drive away is Rawai Pier, from here you can hire a longtail boat to take to one of the small islands nearby or island hopping for the day. These pictures below were taken at twilight.



Wednesday, 6 April 2011

A Semester in Phuket and a Trip

It’s April 2011 and I’ve spent the past six months living and teaching in Phuket Town. The first semester ended in early March and the time absolutely flew.

I’m teaching at a Thai-Chinese school and my students study at Mathayom 4, 5 and 6, which is upper high school level. In many ways this isn’t an easy age group to teach, no longer can they be treated like children but they aren’t quite adults yet either. That said, with the better students (meaning the ones whose English is good), I can have a decent conversation with and they are a real pleasure to teach and guide along with their studies. This past semester I was the core teacher for the M4 students, which means I was following the national curriculum and using a lot of new grammar as part of the course. For M5 and M6, I was the support teacher.  With running a support course comes freedom to choose what I want to teach within reason. M5, I could do things under the heading of “Reading and Writing” and M6, “Hotels and tourism”. For the next school year, starting in May, I will be responsible for the support course for all three years of upper Mathayom. So for my M4s, I will be covering “Listening and Speaking” M5 and M6 have the same topics as last year but I will be using a lot of new material. I’ll come back to write what’s happening with my students a few months into the next semester.

There have been quite a few activities, many of which I participated in, starting on 13th November with “Teachers’ Sports Day”, an annual event in which six private schools in Phuket Town get together in friendly competition with games ranging from a three-legged race to futsol and from tug-of-war to volleyball. Two weeks later, the school had it own sports day. We gathered in the town centre at 7:30 in the morning and paraded around a kilometre and a half to the school. Quite a few onlookers en-route came out of their houses and businesses to watch. The students were divided into four teams, Blue, Red, Green and Yellow and once back at the school, the games commenced. I thought it was a much more enjoyable day than the “Teachers’ Sports Day”.

December arrived and we found ourselves busy preparing students for the Christmas show. Children from the Prathom (Primary) levels were going to be singing carols, staging a fashion show and dancing. Lower Mathayom were putting on a nativity play and performing the “Little Drummer Boy”.  Upper Matthayom, who I was responsible for, were putting on Cinderella. Friday 24th December came and at assembly we had a Christmas quiz and an appearance from Santa Claus. Lessons finished after period 5 at 1:30 in the afternoon and our show commenced. One of the boys, a katoey (ladyboy) who was due to play an ugly sister, failed to turn up. Drastic action was needed so I ended up getting made up by a number of my M5 students, one working on the lips; another, the cheeks; another the eyes and so on. Soon with the addition of a brunette wig, it must be said, I was looking very much like my mother wearing exaggerated make-up, (although, I hasten to add, she’s no ugly sister). On stage, we had problems with microphone malfunction, the smoke effect intended to screen Cinderella when the Fairy gave her a Ball-Gown didn’t work but our improvisations went down very well with the audience of students and Thai teachers.

Following the success of the Christmas show, we teachers in the English Department had just four days to plan and prepare a short skit or dance that showcased our culture, for the teachers and staff New Year’s Party. Heads were being scratched, and scratched, and scratched until I decided to burst out in song with the Time Warp (The Rocky Horror Show). I then explained how to do the accompanying dance, found a performance on you tube by Glee and so we proceeded to rehearse it. Now anybody who knows me from Karaoke evenings in London, will be aware that The Time Warp was my piece de resistence, particularly when I had a radio mike (as opposed to a wired mike) in my hand. Came the 30th December and the party, which was held at the school. After eating food and imbibing in a drink or two, came the performances. Up we went onto the stage, I played the part of Rif Raf (without the hair) and my colleague Jody played the part of Magenta. We had a lot of fun, everyone, performers and audience, enjoyed it and I was gaining a reputation for being a little bit crazy but nevertheless okay. The whole evening was a lot of fun and it confirmed my thoughts that there was a great bunch of teachers and administration staff working here at the school.

New Years Eve and I went to Patong to see in 2011. Bangla Road, the main drag at nightime, was packed. Silly string was attaching itself everywhere, Ladyboys dancing on podiums, as always they do, and a great sense of fun in the air. Eventually got down to the beach where there was a concert with a Hip Hop band playing. Many people drinking beer in buckets, fireworks going off in many directions and a great party atmosphere. Then it was 2011.

New Year’s Day came with something new and something old. I completed my packing my things and moved from the Condo where I had been staying, with the help of my friend Best and his pick-up truck, into a house at Phuket Villas. I’d just finished unpacking most things and got the place looking habitable when Mayom arrived. He left the job in Kuala Lumpur that he didn’t enjoy to move back to Thailand and be here with me in Phuket. So there I was at the end of the first day of 2011 in a new house with my partner back home.

Nothing much happened at school in January, except for Student’s Day on the  7th  of the month, where the students celebrated with fun and games rather than lessons.  February arrived and brought with it the Chinese New Year. On the 1st February it was the Chinese teachers turn to stage a show with students to celebrate their new year, which was two days away. It was a short week for giving lessons, just a day and a half in fact, for the next day school was devoid of students who had almost all stayed at home to prepare by cleaning the home and decorating it before the family get’s together for a New Year’s Eve Dinner, a celebration comparable to Christmas Dinner in the West. The following two days, though not a public holiday in Thailand, were declared a holiday by the school, so it was happy long weekend for me and my colleagues.

The remaining semester soon passed by, at the beginning of March students had their final exams, the M6 students graduated and I attended a seminar for Thai Culture, Language and Professional Ethics. The seminar was in Surat Thani, a four hour drive across the southern peninsula by minivan, it lasted three days and taught me many things I didn’t realise about Thai culture before. I even got to do some traditional dancing and play traditional musical instruments. Back at the school, we were losing three of our native English teachers at the end of the year. Adam to another school on the island, Jody to go back to England for an extended holiday and Cathal, who had his sister’s wedding to attend in Ireland. I was tasked with finding their replacements, a job advert went into Ajarn.com, the largest website in Thailand for foreign teachers. After sifting through many CVs and putting them into three piles, Yes, Definitely Not and Definitely Maybe, I proceeded to telephone applicants, starting with the Yes pile. A chat on the phone first of all, I found helped enormously to separate the chaff from the wheat. For the first couple of interviews, the other native English teachers joined me but we found it was a bit much and obviously quite daunting for the soul who was being interviewed, so after that I interviewed them along with Jody. We took on Michael, first of all, a former Pro Golfer from California, he will be teaching Upper Prathom, the nine to twelve year olds, when the new semester starts in May. Then along came Victoria, who has experience of teaching children and young people in London, she will be other teacher for Mathayom 4, 5 and 6 along with me. That just left one position to fill but now it was the 27th March and time to take a little trip.

The school had organised a 5 day/4 night field trip for its employees to Central Thailand. Most of the teachers and admin staff were going, although I was the only foreigner amongst them. Two big red double decker VIP buses arrived to take us on our trip and so we departed Phuket at 3pm on the last Saturday in March. The journey north was a long one, we had several rest stops and dinner on route but it wasn’t until 6am the following morning that we arrived at our first destination, Suphanburi.

The word Suphan originates from Sanskrit, meaning gold and buri meaning city. So there we were in the City of Gold or Suphanburi and one of the oldest recorded cities in Thailand, with archaeological evidence dating back nearly 4,000 years. After stopping off at a hotel to take a shower and enjoy a breakfast, we started our tour with a visit to a large and beautiful temple, followed by a visit to the Dragon Discovery museum, a most unusual building in the shape of a golden dragon spewing water. Inside the museum we went on a tour showing the 5,000 year history of the Chinese people. Next stop was the Suphanburi National Museum, which told the long history of the province. Lunch followed at a restaurant alongside the river. Our afternoon was spent at the Aquarium, the main attraction for me here was the crocodiles and the crocodile show. The two guys playing with or should I say teasing the creatures were either extremely brave or crazy. On reflection I think the later applies, I mean what sane person would stick their head inside a croc’s mouth, hmmm! Next stop was the floating market. Some floating markets are traditional, others are tourist attractions, I’m pleased to say this one was the former. An array of toys, simple in their style and design, often made of tin and reminding me of my childhood could be found on stalls, clothing and food stools were amongst others that filled the narrow lanes beside the river. Here I bought a T-shirt for myself and another for Mayom. Finally, shopped out, we re-boarded the bus and headed to the hotel for the evening.

5 am the following morning I was cruelly woken up by an alarm call, following breakfast we departed on our big red buses bound for the infamous city of Pattaya. After a journey close on five hours, we arrived about 11:30 in the morning at a seafood restaurant in the Jontiem area of Pattaya. It didn’t take long for me to notice that the waiting staff consisted mainly of ‘ladies’, complete with Adam’s apples and ample breasts. Following on from there we travelled a short distance to a theme park by the name of Mini Siam which had models of famous buildings in Thailand and others around the world, scaled down to 1:25 of their normal size. This was a good place for some photos if nothing else, then we were back on board the bus for a short journey to Nong Nuch Tropical Garden. This however was not just a garden but more of a theme park, with the best cultural show I have yet seen in Thailand, an Elephant show and many other attractions that there just wasn’t the time for. Well after a great time at Nong Nuch we travelled onwards to the Pattaya Floating Market. Now this one was built as a tourist attraction, I actually visited there previously with my last school when we had English Camp at Sathahip, nearby. Whilst this is a tourist attraction, it’s 25 acres displays elements of the floating markets in four regions of Thailand and house types of those regions too, indeed it is a very pleasant place to stroll around. Here, I bought a pair of miniature elephants as souvenirs and for good luck, they now adorn a focal position in my living room.

We drove back into Pattaya and checked in at the Seaview Resort Hotel, with no sea in sight, I can only assume subsequent building in the area had blocked the view. Everyone was in cheery mood and eight of us took off to get pizza at Central Festival. We eventually returned to the hotel and spent a couple of hours playing cards with colleagues before bed beckoned me.
 

It was Tuesday morning and following breakfast our buses drove us to Bangkok and the Vimanmek Palace, the world’s largest golden teakwood mansion. Built in the year 1900 by Chulalonkorn, King Rama 5, he lived permanently for five years until 1906. The building has two right-angled wings, each wing is 60 meters long and is three-storied except for the part where the king resided, which is octagonal and four-stories in height.
From there we checked into our hotel and some of us went by taxi through the most awful of traffic jams to the area known as Victory Monument. After a lunch taken at a famous noodle restaurant, it was shopping time. I left my Thai colleagues for a while to go to DK Today, an English Language bookshop nearby, to feast on some new books I could use in my lessons. After another taxi journey back to the hotel through more horrendous traffic, we prepared for dinner on the river. We boarded a very large boat, inside there was a vast restaurant where we enjoyed an excellent meal. Following diiner, we went upstairs to the open deck to enjoy the views as the boat set off along Chao Praya River. Now I lived in Bangkok for a couple of years, March to May are the main summer months between winter and the rainy season with temperatures in the mid to upper thirties by day dropping only a few degrees by night - but not tonight. Throughout this trip we experienced previously unrecorded of temperatures as low as 21 or 22 degrees but not this night, it was even colder at18 degrees and feeling like 16 with the wind chill factor. Never, I repeat never in Bangkok had I felt so cold. The boat took me past building and places I remembered fondly from my time in the city as it journeyed outwards for nearly ninety minutes along the muddy old river. Not long after turning around to head back to its mooring, I went back inside the boat to the restaurant which had now turned into a ballroom, complete with live band. That short visit back to Bangkok made me wonder how I spent so long living there with the traffic and the dirt, maybe I am done with big city living.

After a sound night’s sleep it was another rude awaking at 5 am and we were off to Petchaburi for the business side to the trip. We were visiting another Thai-Chinese school, this one a little smaller than our own but one with an excellent academic record. We arrived at about 9:30 am, nearly all of us not fully awake from our sleep on the way. After speeches, a tour of the school, a lunch and performances by the school band and children singing, we left at about 1:30 pm to make our way back to Phuket. It was a slow return journey. The incredibly strange weather had produced severe flooding on route and sometimes the bus had to slow down to a crawl through the rivers that had temporarily replaced the roads. A couple of times it seemed that the road surface had been destroyed and the bus rocked quite violently as it crept along. In fact it gave a similar sensation to flying in an aeroplane through some heavy turbulence. Finally, just before midnight we arrived back at Thaihua, safe and sound, there was no rain, and though unusually cool at 23 degrees, I felt comparatively warm ad I road my bike home with my suitcase strapped behind.

The next morning, and the last day of March, I still had to find a teacher for the lower Prathoms. A new job advert had been published whilst I was away and I organised a couple of suitable candidates to come in for interview on the following Monday. I was at home and pondering as to whether I should interview a third candidate when I received a phone call from Jody. “Can I come round and see you”, she asked. “Yes, of course, I’ll get a few beers in”, came my reply. Jody arrived, we cracked open the beer as she told me that she was planning to stay in Thailand, not take her extended holiday in the UK and could she apply for the remaining position at the school. She did have to talk it through with her family first and though she was ninety percent certain, Jody would let me know for sure on the Monday.

Well I couldn’t cancel the two candidates for the job as I could not be a hundred percent sure of Jody’s return, besides, I would have to get the okay from the Thai Head of Department, Wandee. Monday morning came and I was still in bed when I got the call I'd been waiting for.  Yes, Jody was definitely staying and wanted to be considered for the vacant position. I was thrilled, I get on well with Jody and realised with her on board we could look forward to having a really fantastic team of native English teachers for the new school year. I got to the school, called Wandee out from a meeting and gave her the news. Wandee’s smile said it all, Jody would certainly be welcomed back, however I still had the task of interviewing the other two candidates, which I think I did very well under the circumstances. The following morning I got back to both of them and said that a that a former teacher had applied to return and would be filling the vacancy. Well all this was happening during the start of my holiday, so now I’m going to relax, enjoy the rest of it and indeed enjoy Songkran, the Thai New Year, next week before the new semester commences.

The performance of The Time Warp can be seen here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMnjWJi4HRI  

Saturday, 19 February 2011

Phuket - Rang Hill

There are many places worth a visit in Phuket and so I've decided to write and show a few photos about some of them. This is the first, Rang Hill in Phuket Town.

Situated on the northern side of the town, approached from Mae Luan Road at the juction with Satun Road or Yaorawat Road, next to Vachira Hospital. The road climbing up the hill is quite pleasant to drive, surrounded by woodland it's hard to imagine being in the middle of a city.


Upon reaching the top there is a a one-way system with two parking areas. An outdoor cafe come snack bar is situated just beyond the first car park and there are two restaurants affording superb views of the town.
A statue of Ratsada Korsimbi Na Ranong, governor of Phuket between 1890 and 1909, who did much for the development of Phuket has been erected here. 

Views from top


Macaque monkees live on the hill


Friday, 18 February 2011

Life in Phuket



Let's face it, I'm a city boy, born and bred in London. And I love London, let's face it, London is one of the most vibrant, one of the most cosmopolitan, one of the most outrageous, one of the most compelling cities in my universe. Bangkok, "The Big Mango", "The City of Angels" is also cosmopolitan, outrageous, compelling. But I'm a 'false' big city boy, I prefer the small cities, the Brightons, the Torremolinoses of this world and hey guess what?! Phuket, an island, joined to mainland Thailand by a bridge over a narrow strip of the Andaman Sea.


So here I am in Phuket, my current home, a place I am comfortable in and happy in. For example, this morning I left my villa with my partner Mayom and followed him to his place of work, The Westin Siray Bay Resort and Spa. To get there we passed by Robinsons, the main department store in the town centre, crossed the sea by bridge - yes Siray is an island but still considered an integral part of Phuket Island - passed the monkeys, drove close by the Sea Gypsy village until we reached a cape surrounded by turquoise sea. Before returning home I went to Central Festival, a shopping mall about two kilometres from home, parked the bike and went up to the fourth floor and stepped into "Cut and Curl" for a haircut. I was asked, which stylist I would like to cut my hair, the one I had on my previous visit wasn't there, so I said either of the other two male stylists they showed me. I was treated to a five minute head and shoulder massage, followed by a hair was, stretched out on a comfortable day bed. Then I was sat at one of the hair styling station and supplied with liquid refreshment, where following a consultation, my hair was cut to my precise requirements. This was followed by a quick rinse to rid any loose hair and a blow dry and final styling. All the for the princely sum of 400 baht, a little over £8. I had almost equal treatment to that in Torquay, six years ago for £25. Anyway, I've been digressing, the point is, I left the shopping mall only to step into clear blue sky and a mountain facing me, covered in lush green trees. The temperature, a comfortable 31 celsius.




I get around on my motorbike, an electric blue and silver Honda Wave 110 FI. Without it I would be marooned, public transport on the island is not a patch on Bangkok which has the best public transport service infrastructure I know outside London. There are buses here but they tend to finish early evening, taxis and tuk tuks are much more expensive. So nearly everyone on the island has a bike, a car or a truck to get around. I bought it ten days after I arrived to live in Phuket and after realising that getting motorbike taxis to get around were much more expensive than meter taxis in Bangkok. I considered hiring a bike but at 2,500 baht a month that would work out at 30,000 baht for one year. Then I looked at second-hand bikes but second-hand goods hold their price much better in Thailand than the UK and a three-year old Honda Wave with nearly 30,000 kilometres on the clock was going to cost me 32,000 baht and would come with just a three month warrantee. So I opted to buy new, my bike cost me 39,000 baht (roughly £800) with road tax, government third-party insurance and a five year warrantee. It's a comparatively dangerous mode of transport but it is the quickest, being able to slice through traffic jams, and I do wear a full-face helmet.


For my first three months in Phuket, I lived in a condominium at Supalai Resort on the outskirts of Phuket Town. It was not ideal but I had to find somewhere quickly when I moved from Bangkok. In fact, although the condo was only two years old, it was a dingy place that had serious problems with mould. On 1st January, I happily moved into a lovely villa home, also on the outskirts of Phuket Town but also very centrally located to get anywhere on the south of this island, and only three kilometres and a little over five minutes from the school where I teach.



My villa is a single storey building, set on a private housing estate, is semi-detached but once through the gate, invisible from the neighbours I share a partition wall with. There is a front garden with "Bird of Paradise" plants flowering over two metres high. The patio has a ceramic tiled floor covered by the roof, protecting from the blazing sun and the monsoon rain that take turns to cover Phuket. Through the front door is a large living room, measuring 21feet by 18 feet, has windows to the front and rear, I have an L-shaped sofa, TV and dining table amongst the furniture. Off of the living room are two bedrooms and a bathroom, the kitchen is outside, covered by a sloping roof and enclosed by three walls. The main bedroom has a four set of winds two the front and side, a kingsize bed, large mirrored wardrobe, wicker armchair, chest of drawers and shelf units. A door on the right leads to the en-suite shower room. The second bedroom, with windows to the rear and side is not as large as the main but still spacious has a door directly leading to the bathroom and is ideal for any guest who may come and visit. I am happy with it. It is a very nice place to live.
A visitor


The school, which I will refer to only as Phuket TH (purely to avoid Google picking up this blog whenever a search is done on the school), has just over a thousand students from Anubahn (kindergarten), through Prathom (primary) and Mathayom (secondary school). It is a private school whose buildings and grounds are neatly laid out and well maintained, a stark contrast from the government school in Bangkok, where I worked previously. I teach the upper Mathayom students, the fifteen to eighteen year olds. Many of these students are from wealthy families and know they have a secure future, so by the time they reach their mid-teens a number become rather lazy at studying, often skipping class. However, there are still many good students and it is those who make my job worthwhile. The picture of me below was taken at the school sports day in November, playing a rhythm on the drums to the chorus of cheerers.






Wednesday, 13 October 2010

One Year On

I continued to teach at the government school in Bangkok, Wat Nuannorodit school, right up until a few days ago but at the end of September 2009, the Head of Department, Ajarn Chutatip, took early retirement along with three other Thai teachers who I worked with. From the start of the next term, things weren't quite the same. Don't get me wrong though, things were still okay but a wind of change was in the air that was to grow stronger in the months ahead.


Back in August 2009, I had a pain in my lower abdomen. I went to the hospital to get a diagnosis, it was BPH or Benign Prostatic Hyperplasia. At first I was being treated with drugs, one of them being an alpha blocker that had a near ninety per cent chance of reducing the size of my offending organ in time. However in March 2010, I had a severe infection that went to my kidneys, causing my blood pressure to drop alarmingly as well as giving me a fever. I went to the hospital, was seen and diagnosed within minutes and the doctor suggested I stay in a few days for treatment. I declined but had to return daily for three days to be drip-fed antibiotics. A couple of weeks later, I had my appointment with the specialist. I didn't feel the alpha blockers were working to well and didn't relish the idea of taking them for the rest of my life, so I opted to have a procedure known as TURP to shave away the part of my prostrate that was strangling my poor urethra. The operation was set for May.


Just before I had the infection, I went with the school to English Camp for three days of jolliness and immersion in English with my fellow teachers and IEP (Intensive English Program) students. The camp was at the big armed forces base at Satahip, right on the coast and not far from Pattaya. Of the foreign English teachers at the school, only Ken and myself went, Mecho and Brian were unable to make it. We were joined by a substitute teacher who was from Texas. Ken and I had put in a lot of preparation to organise activities for the students but when we got there, we found that nothing had been properly organised and the substitute teacher, who will remain nameless, was a total oddball (polite term) who we found more of a hindrance than a help. We did what we could, improvising a lot of the time but we weren't getting any help from our Head of Department nor from the teachers in her circle, it was quite disparaging.


April came and went, the Red Shirts came and stayed. At first they occupied the area around Phan Fah bridge and Bangkokians were pretty much able to go about their business as normal. The leaders of the Red Shirts confronted the Prime Minister and the government head on, insisting on elections within 90 days although the government had a mandate to govern until the end of 2011. Prime Minister Abhisit, offered elections with seven months, following reform of the constitution, which is recognized as being seriously flawed. The Red Shirts were having none of it and moved to Rajprasong and the surrounding area, the shopping and entertainment heart of Bangkok.


Now it is May, on Monday, I'm going into hospital for my operation. The phone rings, "Mr Peter, I'm afraid you're Thai Health insurances office are closed as they are in the occupied area, so you will either have to pay for the treatment now and make a claim later or postpone it to a later date." I postpone it.


The Red Shirts were now getting very aggressive. On 23 April, an attack on the BTS station at Sala Daeng killed one person and injured seventy-five others, things were becoming very ugly. Rockets were going off everywhere. Renegade Army General Katthiya, known as Seh Daeng, was considered to be responsible for much of the violence. Indeed, he instigated an assault on Chulalongkorn Hospital, where Red Shirts ran amok around critically ill patients looking for soldiers they believed were hiding out there. No soldiers were found. The violence reached a crescendo when the Red Shirt Leaders, realizing they were about to be defeated by the army, much to the relief of Bangkokians, told their supporters to create as much mayhem and disorder as possible. They did, they set fire to Bangkok.


The new school year started one week late on 24 May, as peace was restored to the city. The wind of change was strengthening and I was disappointed. I rescheduled my operation for the end of July to coincide with exams and half-term. It was decided that the IEP students command of English when speaking wasn't a good as it should be. These students have a maximum six lessons, fifty-five minutes long, each week. They don't use English in any other subject, for example, the sciences or computing, so they don't make any use of it, preferring to stick to their own language. An extra class each week for phonetics (the study of the sounds used in speech), was brought in. This could have been a good idea, the foreign teachers made various suggestions for how we should conduct the class but the Thai teacher seemed to know better. So every week, usually just a few minutes before the class, we would be given handouts with nothing but words using the sound being practised that day. I would do my best, spewing out these words and getting students to repeat them, making up sentences and rhymes using the sounds but again I was improvising. I never considered these lessons to be very successful but very tiring for the teachers involved and very boring for the students. I have given a few phonetics lessons, using my own resources, to my M3 IEPs as part of the listening and speaking course I taught them, I use my own resources and the students enjoyed the lessons and learnt something from them, enough said!


On Saturday 31 July, I checked in to Bangkok Christian Hospital in Silom Road. My room on the 14th floor was pleasant and certainly spacious. A kitchen area, hotel style en-suite and a large room with a big sofa, table and chairs, big screen TV and a bulk standard hospital bed. My operation took place at 8pm. I was given an epidural, which made the lower half of my body completely numb. When the anaesthetist was satisfied that it was working, she gave me an injection to which I started counting towards 10 and woke up in ICU. Because of the epidural, I had to stay there until I had feeling back in my legs and feet, Mayom visited me but had to leave at about 11pm while I was still numb. Eventually I could wiggle my feet, I was so relieved, my legs had had the same sensation as my lips after a visit to the dentist, not nice at all. I was moved back to my room. I shall dwell no further on my stay in hospital for on the Tuesday, i was allowed to go home.


A month passed by. Mayom frustrated at trying to get a suitable position in a five star hotel in Bangkok was told of a vacancy in Reservations at Air Asia but it was based in Kuala Lumpur. Post Red Shirts, tourism in Thailand's capital was well down. The Service Charge payment, which hotel employees rely on to earn a decent wage together with tips were badly down. Mayom interviewed for the KL job and was accepted. On 27 August, he left for a two year contract, though he thinks he may return after a year. The next day, I applied for a position in Phuket, teaching students at Mathayom levels 4 to 6, in other words 15 to 18 year olds.


Phuket is a pretty popular place to work, plenty of teachers go after vacancies there and so I really wasn't sure I'd be interviewed, let alone get the job. Almost two weeks went by and an email took me by surprise. It asked if I could attend an interview at Phuket TH school. Well of course, I said yes and on 16 September, I took an evening flight down to Phuket in order to attend the interview on the following morning. I liked the school, a private school run by Chinese, it was clean, nicely painted, decent furniture and the classrooms all air-conditioned with white boards. Class sizes are small with just twenty to thirty students. The interview went well, no, the interview went really well, and my demonstration lesson to Mathayom 5 students was successful too. There were six other candidates up for interview and I was told that I would hear, one way or other the next Wednesday afternoon. That day my phone's ringing volume was turned up as I waited and waited for a call but none came. On the bus going home, I checked my email and there it was, a message from Phuket TH. Rejected, I thought as I opened the mail, it started "Dear Peter, I am pleased to be able to offer you the position as English Teacher at....". A tear of joy ran down my cheek, I wanted to stand up and shout YES! but instead I remained seated until my stop, called into 7-Eleven and then went home and made a few phone calls.


When I first arrived in Thailand two years ago, I spent three weeks in Phuket going to the dentist for some desperately needed treatment. For the first three days I hated the place and wanted to get back to Bangkok. My fourth evening there things started to change, I bumped into a couple of Brits I had met the previous Friday in Bangkok and realised that all I needed was a little bit of camaraderie. I started to fall in love, yes in love with Phuket, , it's white sandy beaches, the backdrop of lush green mountains, the streets, the people there. Since then, I've returned on two occasions prior to the interview, once for my birthday in 2009 and again for a few days at the beginning of May this year.


So here I am two hours into a twelve hour journey travelling south to an inland town on an island wrapped by white sand and turquoise sea. My new Torremolinos but lovelier with that unique Thai charm.


With my interview being on a Friday, it made perfect sense to spend the weekend in Phuket and whilst browsing around the bookshops i came across a book I had seen two years previously and thought, that looks interesting. For the past 18 months, I've been looking everywhere for it but couldn't find it. I bought Bangkok Boy, an autobiographical account of the life of Chai Pinit, a straight guy who grew up in the Isan province of Si Sisket, situated in the east of Thailand bordering Cambodia. Like many Isan people he turned to the big city to make money, first as a waiter in Pattaya, then becoming a go-go boy and prostitute in order to attain a good income to pay for his lifestyle, ending up where the big money was in Bangkok. Chai writes about his life from his youth when he discovered the pleasurable vices of alcohol and gambling, his relationships with women and a ladyboy, his children and up to the present time as a forty-something man who was almost killed in a brawl with a former friend high on yaba (tablets of methamphetamine and caffeine). It's one of the most interesting stories that I've ever read. I'm glad I finally found and bought the book.


Okay, back to the present. I feel I've been awarded a new lease of life after recent events, maybe it's karma – I think it's karma, so I'm going to take advantage and not allow myself to get into a rut. I've cut back drastically on my Facebook games. I intend to write, about what I'm not sure yet but it's something I've always wanted to do. Certainly I'll start by regular blogs and see what develops from there. I'm going to do a lot of photography, try and make some creative images and I'm getting a bike. A Honda or Yamaha will do, needed largely out of necessity as the transport system in Phuket is typical of rural public transport systems, i.e. not much of it about and the motorbike taxis are twice the cost of Bangkok's car taxis.


The bus has reached Hua Hin, two and three-quarter hours into the journey, that's quite good timing and also time for me to turn out the light and take a rest.


To be continued.

Saturday, 12 September 2009

Teaching in a Government School

I had been teaching here and there since November 2008, I was also working part-time for a language school, and then at 11:30 on the 1st May I received a phone call inviting me to attend an interview for a full time teaching position. Two hours later I was at Wat Nuannorodit School in the district of Bangpai. The school had a nice feel to it and I immediately warmed to the Head of English and another teacher who were interviewing, I was offered the job and immediately accepted. I would be teaching IEP (Intensive English Programme) students at Mathayom 1 and 3, as well as conversational English to Mathayom 5 & 6. In total 19 lessons each of 55 minutes duration per week.

Mathayom is the equivalent to secondary or high school, the M1 students are 12-13 years old and M6, 17-18.

On the 12th May, I arrived just before 7:30am to start my new career as a teacher in a government school. With up to 50 students to a class, I wasn't sure what to expect or how to handle it. On my first day I got things quite wrong, to be honest I was somewhat bewildered about handling a class of 50 students and being able to teach such a quantity. On the second day, I changed tack a little and gave the students a game for the last twelve or fifteen minutes of the lesson, things went much better. From then on things got better, okay I've given the odd activity that's fallen a bit flat but more often than not the activity has been a success.

Now I did say, I'm teaching IEP students and I'm also the lead teacher for Mathayom 1. My job is to teach them English as a whole, i.e. grammar, vocabulary and pronunciation. Imagine a wild bunch of 10-11 year olds in the UK, noisy, running around and naughty. Now my 12-13 year olds are just like that, they can be incredibly naughty, incredibly difficult to control but at least I have no need to fear them and almost all of them have a lot of respect for me as their teacher. This class has 40 students, 27 boys and 13 girls and out of each fifty-five minute lesson, I spend at least 25 minutes trying to control them. This is not a problem confined to me, other teachers all find this class exceptionally difficult to manage they have so much energy they need to release. That said I have a lot of affection for them, they seem always pleased to see me and have even asked other teachers why they can't be kind like Ajarn Peter. This means a lot, especially as I can get pretty tough with them, giving out lines, confiscating mobile phones and comic books.

My lessons to the Mathayom 3 students are based on a programme called "English for Quality of Life", that said I'm pretty much given a free reign as to what and how I teach them. These students are 14-15 years old, there are 37 in the class and a great deal better behaved than those in Mathayom 1.

Mathayom 5 of which I teach grades 1, 3, 5, 9 and 10 and Mathayom 6, all grades 1-10 have me for their conversation class. With 50 students to a class, conversation lessons aren't the easiest to give especially as Thai students habitually revert to their mother tongue at almost every given opportunity. My philosophy is to integrate as much fun as possible in the lessons whilst teaching new vocabulary and correct pronunciation. These lessons are usually activity based and range from songs to discussions to making plans.

On 1st September there was a competition between ten schools locally. Beforehand I had been asked to coach Chanatip, a Mathayom 2 IEP student who would be entering the reading competition. I spent about 6 hours tutoring him to read well. We read from abridged versions of Oliver Twist and The Wizard of Oz. Chanatip had to learn to alter his voice each of the different characters that spoke and using stress and intonation correctly. It paid off, Chanatip came second, I was pleased. I was also given the role of quizmaster for the English quiz at Mathayom 3 level. Two of my students, nicknames Benz and Am, formed our school's team. I read out twenty questions, being very careful not to give any clues in any way to Benz and Am. After the twentieth question, the scores were counted, it was a tie between my students and a pair from another school. We started the tie-break, the first question both teams got right, same with the second. The third question resulted in two wrong answers, the nail-biting fourth question "Who was the first president of the U.S.," finally produce the result. Only one team gave the correct answer "George Washington" that team was Benz and Am from Wat Nuannorodit school, I was so proud of them.

Now it is already the end of the first term and exams are currently in progress. I can't believe how quickly these past four months have gone and how much I'm enjoying teaching. I usually arrive at school just before 7:30am and finish between 1:30 and 4:15pm, depending on my schedule for the day. I'm loving it!

Saturday, 18 April 2009

Thaksin and the Red Shirts

Over a period of three weeks the Red Shirts, followers of Thaksin Shinawatra, the convicted former Prime Minister held rallies in Bangkok aimed at ousting the present incumbent of the post Mr Abhisit. They moved onto Pattaya and forced the cancellation of the Asean (Association of Southeast Asian Nations) summit by storming the venue holding it. Spurred on by this "victory" they returned to Bangkok and demonstrated threateningly around parts of the city. The military overpowered them on 13th April and the next day, the leaders gave up. These people were stirred on by Thaksin a thief guilty of robbing the Thai economy for his own ends. He bribed the poor with a few Baht so they would vote for him. Many of these people have received little or no education and probably have no real understanding of politics. The educated middle class in the cities saw through Thaksin and the man fled with suitcases full of money. He flew to the UK in a Russian jet, where he bought himself Manchester City FC.

Here is a recent political timeline

2006:
Following an election in April which left Thaksin just short of an overall majority despite bribing the poor with cash to vote for him, a court later nullified the result, the following events occurred.
On 19th September 2006, the Military staged a coup while Thaksin was away at the United Nations. He went into exile in London and used money he had made by suspicious means to buy Manchester City football club. 12 days later, a former army commander-in-chief Surayud Chulanont was sworn in as interim prime minister.

2007:

30th May and Thaksin's Thai Rak Thai party was dissolved for breaking election laws. He and 110 senior party members were banned from politics for five years.
20th August , voters endorse a new, military-drafted constitution, the 18th in 75 years.
23rd December the pro-Thaksin People Power Party (PPP) failed to get an overall majority in a general election.

2008:

28th January, the PPP leader Samak Sundaravej elected prime minister.
25th May and the People's Alliance for Democracy (PAD) otherwise referred to as the "yellow shirts" staged street protests to overthrow the "Thaksin puppet government."
31st July, Thaksin's wife Potjaman was given a three-year jail term for tax fraud.
11th August saw Thaksin and his wife skippng bail and escaping to London.
26th August, thousands of PAD protesters stormed Government House in an attempt to get rid of Samak.
Soon after on 2nd September Samak declares a state of emergency in Bangkok when one person was killed and 45 injured in clashes. One week later he was found guilty of violating constitution by hosting TV cooking shows while in office and forced to quit.
17th September, Somchai Wongsawat, Thaksin's brother-in-law was elected prime minister by parliament.
21st October sees the Supreme Court sentencing Thaksin to two years in jail in his abcence for breaking a conflict-of-interest law.
Bangkok's main airport was taken over by PAD protesters on 25th November halting all flights and stranding 250,000 foreign visitors.
On the 2nd December the Constitutional Court disbanded the PPP and banned Somchai from politics for five years. PAD protesters ended their blockade of Bangkok's two airports the following day.
15th Dec - Opposition leader Abhisit Vejjajiva, an Oxford-educated economist, became the third prime minister in as many months. About 200 red-shirted demonstrators block access to parliament, accusing him of being a stooge of the military.

2009:
The following is an article from the Bangkok Post on 14th April 2009
How the red-shirt protest developed and ended

March 26: Thousands of Thaksin supporters in trademark red shirts begin rallying in Bangkok, calling on Prime Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva and his government to resign and allow fresh elections.
They are spurred on by Thaksin Shinawatra, who starts a series of almost nightly addresses to the crowd by telephone and video link.
 
March 27: Thaksin accuses Privy Council president Prem Tinsulanonda, privy councillors Surayud Chulanond and Charnchai Likitjitta of being behind the 2006 military coup that toppled him.

March 28: General Surayud rejects Thaksin's claim, saying privy councillors are not involved in politics.

April 2: Red-shirt leader Jatuporn Prompan says a mass rally planned for April 8 is aimed at pressuring Mr Abhisit, General Prem and the privy councillors to resign.

April 3: Thaksin refuses an invitation by Deputy Prime Minister Suthep Thaugsuban to negotiate with the government, and calls on his supporters to come out in force for a mass rally on April 8.

April 7: Mr Abhisit's car is attacked by red-shirts in Pattaya as he heads back to Bangkok after a cabinet meeting. Thaksin's three children and ex-wife leave Thailand.
 
April 8: More than 30,000 red-shirts rally at Government House, their main protest site.

April 9: Taxi drivers block main roads and Victory Monument, bringing the city to a halt. Mr Abhisit vows tough action against red-shirts who break the law, but no action is taken.

April 10: Thaksin's supporters, already spread out across Bangkok, launch a separate protest in the beach resort of Pattaya, where 16 Asian leaders are to meet for a major Asean-sponsored summit, with Asean chairman Thailand as the host.

April 11: Thousands of protesters storm the venue of the summit, forcing its cancellation. A state of emergency is declared as foreign leaders are evacuated - some by helicopter from the hotel roof.

April 12: A state of emergency is declared in Bangkok and surrounding areas as new anti-government demonstrations spring up. Pattaya protest leader Arisman Pongruangrong arrested in Bangkok. About 50 protesters force their way into the Interior Ministry grounds while Mr Abhisit is inside. He escapes. Thaksin says he will lead an uprising if there is a coup.

April 13: Army cracks down on protesters in Bangkok. Two people die and 123 treated for injuries in army assaults on groups of protesters and several ugly confrontations between red shirts and local people who formed neighbourhood militias.

April 14: Thousands of demonstrators who had retreated to their main camp outside Government House agree to disperse in the face of an overwhelming military operation to close down days of protests.

Government extends the three-day Songkran holiday for two more days.

___________________________________________________________

Recently, following the violent clashes in the streets of Bangkok, which left two innocent people dead, killed by the UDD, redshirts, the government cancelled Thaksin's passport and he left Dubai, where he had been staying, for an undisclosed destination in Africa. Nicaragua has stated that following an earlier meeting between Thaksin and the Nicaraguan president, it has issued the fugitive with a diplomatic passport.

The incumbent Prime Minister Mr Abhisit, seems a good man and we can only hope that he can bring the two sides together for discussions on the future of democracy in Thailand. The Thai people are wonderful and very resilient, this is the "Land of Smiles".

Friday, 17 April 2009

A meeting with friends

Things move fast, I had only known MayOm for just over 2 months, now it was 27th February and he came over with a bag of clothes and some clothes hangers, he put them in the second wardrobe. We'd agreed that he would stay at my apartment in Sathorn for 4 or 5 days a week, spending the rest of the time at home with his mother. On Saturday we took my small suitcase and took a taxi to his home where he filled his suitcase and mine, packed his laptop in its bag and together with a couple of carrier bags of papers and TOEFL course books returned to my apartment.

Now, MayOm was supposed to be improving his English and watching, in the main, English speaking TV channels and receiving lessons from me. Well the lessons lasted two weeks and the English TV somewhat less, now I'm subjected to Thai soaps on TV. The Thai's are crazy about their soaps, to the point that a crucial episode means dropping absolutely everything and I mean absolutely everything for the TV. Thai soaps remind me of the acting standards attained in that famous long departed British soap, Crossroads. One notices that many actors and presenters have a light skin tone and some have slightly European features. The Thais have as much of an obsession looking white as north Europeans do getting a tan, a dark-skin is deemed to be unfortunate as it is easily confused with peasant farmers working their paddy fields. However, back to MayOm's English and he can now understand me speaking normally; every so often I correct his pronunciation and insert prepositions into his language. It's now seven weeks since MayOm moved in and he never did go back to stay at his mother's home.

Friday 6th March, it was around 6pm and I went to the Pinnacle Hotel near the Suan Lum night bazaar to meet two friends from Torremolinos, Ed and Trevor. I was quite excited, having my first friends visiting here. They were actually spending four weeks in Pattaya and popped up to Bangkok for the weekend. I took them to Silom Soi 4 where we sat at The Balcony watching the passersby; after almost two hours, we managed to stroll across the soi, about eight steps, to the Telephone Pub and went upstairs for some food. After, we went back downstairs and parked ourselves on the terrace of the Telephone and later returned to The Balcony to enjoy a few drinks and the local views. Shortly before 11pm I decided to show Ed and Trevor something of the seedier side of Bangkok nightlife in Soi Twilight. We went into X-Men and sat directly in front of the stage. Well I like to keep my blogs clean so I won't go into detail about what we saw, though the three of us had to pop our eyes back in quite a few times. We had a couple of drinks there which I would call Spanish measures – I think the idea of them being so strong is to loosen up the punters in order that they take a piece of the merchandise away with them. It was closing in on 1am when we left, Ed and Trevor returned to the Pinnacle and me back home to MayOm.

The next evening we arranged to have dinner, Ed and Trevor, MayOm and me. MayOm chose the Pandanus Restaurant in Sathorn Soi 1 which has Thai, European and Fusion food we enjoyed over some good conversation. Afterwards we went, minus MayOm, to The Balcony in Soi 4 for some more sightseeing before finishing at 9, the name of a new disco showbar, for the show. I left Trevor and Ed there having arranged to meet them the next day for a visit to Wat Pho. Now the reason MayOm went home instead of coming with us is that he does not like Soi 4. In his opinion there are too many money boys there. I agree to a point, yes there's a lot of that type although there's also a number of decent Thais who go or work there but I respect his opinion on it.

The following morning I got up quite late, as one often does on a Sunday, of course this meant I had to hurry to get ready to visit the temple with Ed and Trevor. I met them at the Pinnacle Hotel, where they were waiting by their taxi which was to get us to Wat Pho before taking them back to Pattaya. We got through the traffic to the Wat about 1:30pm. The day was hot with sun beating down fiercely and we were all respectfully dressed in jeans rather than shorts for the visit and it didn't take very long before we were feeling the effects of the sun. Wat Pho is famous as the birthplace of Thai massage; it is one of the largest wats, covering 50 rai (20 acres). We wandered around, visiting the shrines of Buddha and walking the 46 metre length of the Reclining Buddha We passed statues Singha lions and of stone giants guarding gateways, amongst them was Marco Polo. Trevor and I got adventurous and climbed one of the Chedi to see a lovely view of the temple from a height of about 10 metres. Eventually the need to sit down and quench our thirsts became overwhelming; I'd already consumed a bottle of water I'd been carrying. We then continued around a little longer, spending almost two hours there before leaving, Ed and Trevor by taxi to Pattaya and I by ferry along the Chao Phra Ya River to home.

Monday 9th March came and I was off to the Text and Talk Academy, where I had decided to take a further course specifically aimed at Thai students including young learners. I want to teach children and the CELTA course I did in Chiang Mai never prepared me for that, also I just didn't feel confident after the course, which I was about teaching adults anyway, to go straight into paid teaching. My plan to go volunteer teaching at a primary school for six weeks from late January had been wrecked by the incompetence over the handling of my accounts by the Abbey bank which was impossible to sort out over the phone as the call centre staff both in the UK and India either lacked authority (even the managers!) or were completely ignorant and even rude. The critical problem of being able to access my funds were resolved in a matter of minutes when I called into the Beckenham branch. Now as it was mid January, I had no return ticket organised yet to Thailand and the schools would be closed from the beginning of March until late May, volunteer teaching was no longer feasible and Text and Talk guaranteed me work to follow. You might ask at this point why I did a course aimed at teaching adults then? Well my reply is simple, in that I took the CELTA course understanding it to be the Rolls Royce of TEFL/TESOL training, I also thought I that in all likelihood I would be teaching in Spain and at a language school where most students would be adult.

The course commenced with seven teachers on it, the only thing it has in common with the CELTA is the 6 hours of Teaching Practice, although even those are different more varied and probably more real world. In the final days we were down to five, two had dropped out.

On the morning of Sunday 22nd March, I took a bus down to Pattaya to meet with Ed and Trevor. On arrival at Pattaya bus station, I jumped on a motorcycle taxi to Le Cafe Royal, where they were staying, I found Ed on the patio sipping on something alcohol-free, I took a coke. Shortly after Trevor arrived with his friend Tom and took a coffee. I spent the day with them, having lunch then settling down to a beer or two at the Panorama pub. It was there that I met Oum aka James who I knew previously as a waiter at The Balcony. His head had been shaved and the hair was only just growing back, it turned out that he had been a novice monk for a short while and was now looking after a house in Pattaya owned by a Farang, keeping it secure whilst it was undergoing renovation by builders. He told me he would be returning to Bangkok in April and asked me if I could help him by giving English lessons when he got back. I told him, I don't mind meeting him for a conversation but I would have to charge for a lesson – I have decided, soft as I am, I won't give lessons for free but will charge a fee somewhat dependent upon what the student can afford. A good few beers later it was 8:30pm and time to head back to Bangkok, saying my farewells to Ed and Trevor, his friend Tom and to Oum I jumped back onto a motorcycle and commenced the return journey.

I got back home about 11pm, beating MayOm back; he had been attending a fashion show at Siam Paragon and also had done some shopping, for he returned with a selection of face care products including a whitening lotion.

Wednesday, 4 March 2009

Phuket, birthday weekend 2009

Peter & the birthday cake

Peter on Kata Beach

MayOm & Peter

MayOm and the big heart

MayOm and the big fish

They're alcohol free and really yummy!

Wat Chalong

Big Buddha

Lighthouse at Promthep